Costume Construction
In a Costume Construction presentation, the Thespian must prepare a presentation and realized execution for one costume for a published work written for the theatre. Costumes for performances of original work, poetry, fiction, screenplays, television, or any other medium are not permitted. Only one Thespian may be involved in the construction. No collaborations are permitted. Costumes for either theoretical or realized productions are acceptable.
The skills measured by the adjudicators during the presentation are:
- Sewing and construction skills including: application of sewing techniques, pattern use, fitting of the final garment to self or another model
- Attention to detail
- Ability to demonstrate an understanding of the artistic, functional, and practical constraints that impact construction choices
- Ability to research and understand the connection between style, period, locale, genre, and other historical and cultural influences and construction choices
- Ability to budget appropriately for the costume construction
- Ability to document, present, and clearly explain and justify the process of constructing the costume and the costume’s functionality
In a Costume Construction presentation, the Thespian must follow the aforementioned rules for the International Thespian Excellence Awards as presented in this guide, and also the following rules specific to this category:
The Thespian must prepare:
- A fully constructed costume that reflects the Thespian’s capabilities and strengths, constructed entirely by the Thespian, using a publicly available or personally designed pattern, for use in a play or musical.
- The garment should be presented on a hanger, mannequin, or, if an accessory, in a box. The Thespian should not wear the costume during the presentation.
- The design for the costume need not be done by the Thespian who constructs it, but it should be original to the production being presented, whether theoretical or realized. If non-original material is used, sources must be cited, and receipts of purchased materials (e.g., a pattern) must be included in the presentation of the costume.
- A portfolio of support materials (bound or digital) that must include the following:
- Research, including:
- Summary of given circumstances from the script;
- Functionality requirements;
- Genre, locale, and setting of the play (or other explanation of the world of the play);
- Artistic and practical needs that impact the construction;
- Sources of inspiration for design and color palette (if used).
- Pattern used for the costume construction.
- If the costume is designed, developed, and constructed from a pattern available for purchase, the pattern manufacturer’s information must be included in the details of the presentation.
- Alternatively, a pattern designed by the participant may be used, but must be included in the portfolio.
- The costume needs to fit the person or model for which it was built. The costume may be designed to fit the participant.
- Itemized expense sheet with accompanying receipts for all materials used to construct the costume, such as fabric, thread, buttons, zippers, and trim.
- The total spent on all items used in the construction of the costume may not exceed $100 (USD), exclusive of the cost of the pattern (if purchased).
- It is understood that there may be an occasional instance where the total value of the materials used exceeds $100, but donated materials have been used. If using donated materials, the value must be determined, documented, and noted on the expense sheet.
- If showcasing millinery work, the budget limit is $50 (if submitting both a garment and millinery item, the total limit would be $150). If using donated materials, the value must be determined and included in the expense sheet.
- Costume production photo series that focuses on the process of building the costume item (laying out the pattern, cutting the fabric, draping the fabric, etc.).
- Include process photos used to document and reflect on the construction of the garment (i.e., not photos of the participant at a sewing machine).
- Photos must depict the garment at various stages of construction and should illustrate such skills (e.g., sleeve alignment, zipper placement and insertion, seam finishes, etc.).
- Include photos of the costume on the person or model for which it was built.
- Research, including:
- A five- to eight-minute in-person or digital presentation summarizing the work with connections to concept, collaboration, and design decision-making. Digital media may be used during an in-person presentation as well (participant must provide their own equipment).
- The video component may be a webinar-style presentation (i.e., a voiceover during a PowerPoint slideshow) or a talking head-style presentation (i.e., talking to the camera).
- Suggested standard prompts for all technical categories are provided to help guide the content of a video presentation.
- What are some of your responsibilities as a costume maker?
- How did the director's concept influence your designs?
- How did the style of the play affect your designs?
- If the show was realized, did you struggle in unifying the director's concept across all areas of your work?
- If you had more time or resources, what would you change?
- What would you be willing to compromise in your design if you had to?
- What was your inspiration and how did you research it?
- Also consider these category-specific questions:
- What significant challenges did you face while constructing this costume?
- Were you also responsible for designing the costume, and if so, why did you choose this fabric/color/embellishment for the character?
- If you did something differently than what the pattern suggested, why?
- If the show was realized, did you have issues with fitting the actors or with the costume tearing during a performance and how did you fix it?
- Any video presentation must display the work so that the adjudicators can see the details. If the details of the documents/photos referenced in your presentation cannot be clearly seen in the video, they should be included in your portfolio of support materials.
- An optional written essay response to share additional information about the costume with the adjudicators.
Costume Construction Rubric
PRESENTATION
Explanation of the executed design, unifying concept, creative decisions, and process
Above Standard
Presentation thoroughly explains the functional and aesthetic role of the constructed garment, unifying concept, and creative process, with compelling examples.
At standard
Presentation explains the functional and aesthetic role of the constructed garment, unifying concept, and creative process, with appropriate examples.
Near Standard
Presentation partially explains the functional and aesthetic role of constructed garment, unifying concept, and creative process, with cursory examples.
Aspiring to Standard
Presentation fails to explain the functional and aesthetic role of the constructed garment, unifying concept, and/or creative process.
RESEARCH
Evidence of research of the given circumstances of the script as well as artistic and practical needs which impact the design.
Above Standard
Evidence of extensive research into the character, time, period, mood, style, genre, and functionality.
At standard
Evidence of thorough research into the character, time, period, mood, style, genre, and functionality.
Near Standard
Evidence of incomplete research into the character, time, period, mood, style, genre and/or functionality.
Aspiring to Standard
Little or no evidence of research.
INTERPRETATION
Construction choices merge the unifying concept with the maker’s unique vision.
Above Standard
Detailing choices powerfully enhance and communicate the mood, style, period, locale, and genre of the script, and bring the character to life.
At standard
Detailing choices communicate the mood, style, period, locale, and genre of the script and inform the character.
Near Standard
Detailing choices somewhat communicate the mood, style, period, locale, and genre of the script and suggest the character.
Aspiring to Standard
Detailing choices fail to communicate the mood, style, period, locale, genre of the script or the character.
DESIGN JUSTIFICATION
Connecting the construction choices with the needs of the production and artistic and practical considerations.
Above Standard
Construction choices are justified by detailed explanations of all budgetary, practical and artistic considerations.
At standard
Construction choices are justified by explanations of budgetary, practical, and artistic considerations.
Near Standard
Construction choices are mentioned with some limited explanations of budgetary, practical, and artistic considerations.
Aspiring to Standard
Fails to justify construction choices and /or connect to practical and artistic considerations.
EXECUTION
Garment and products presented convey ideas and choices that support the script and unifying concept.
Above Standard
Garment construction and production collage demonstrates precision and meticulous attention to detail; expertly reproducing the design.
At standard
Garment construction and production collage demonstrates skills and attention to detail; accurately reproducing the design.
Near Standard
Garment construction and production collage demonstrates limited skill and attention to detail; and/or partially reproducing the design.
Aspiring to Standard
Garment construction and/or production collage lack detail or are missing and/or fails to reproduce the design.